Day 18: Commander Smokey

81 N, PA destination Beacon, NY.  We pulled into Mathew's Arm campground around 9 pm last night shortly after sunset.  Located in the Shenandoah National Park, we had to break for a young black bear on our way up the winding, ascending Skyline Drive.

Up until now, we have been staying at state park campgrounds. This was the first National Park and the differences were stark.  We were called twice to confirm our reservation; once at 5 pm and again at 7.  When we arrived, we were greeted by an unexpected $20 entrance fee (on top of the camping fee) followed by a personal tutorial of the rules and consequences by a highly proud and decorated, top of her class Park Ranger. Just short of a quiz, I had to initial a card indicating that I read and understood the camping protocols.  This Edward Scissorhands campground was neat, tidy and overflowing with children and dogs.  The upkeep of the grounds and the clockwork staff of air-powered rangers that floated by ever 20 minutes to thwart shenanigans was in contrast with the single toilet facility that could barely handle 10 campsites let alone 100. The first dry, cool temperatures on this trip thus far promised a good night's sleep.  But alas, the loud chairman of the board across from us who needed to make sure everyone else was up at 6 am crushed any opportunity for a full rest.  After some experimental data collection, it seems he could go no longer than 6 seconds without hearing his own, entitled, tree-echoing, inane voice.  Coffee, breakfast, roll it up and pack it in.  We celebrated our last night camping with a hike around the 1.7 mile Trace's Trail to spy another bear grazing not far from the campground hoping one of the children might leave a half-eaten bag of munchies unattended only for Mom & Dad to be fined $80 and have their food impounded.  I would have passed a quiz.

Day 17: Last Day of Camping

Heading toward Knoxville on 75 N.  We arrived at Harrison State Park (just outside of Chattanooga) last night around 10 pm.  We forgot about losing an hour going from CST to EST.  Still in a New Orleans haze, we pitched our tent in the muggy, buggy dark accentuated by distant flashes of lightning and the low rumble of dissipating thunder.  Drenched in sweat, we caught our breath in the tent and reveled in the purchase of a small, usb-powered fan and two, cold Topo Chicos (Mexican sparkling water compliments of Dan in Austin) that we had stuffed in the cooler earlier.  Trying to sleep in the heat to a symphony of crickets became redundant when the distant, severe thunderstorm finally rolled in across the lake and put our tent to its first, severe weather test.  With the tent being blown up like a balloon but holding to the ground, the high winds, blinding lightning, deafening sound of collapsed air and torrential rains lasted for about 20 minutes.  Somewhere toward the beginning of the ride, the campsite next to us packed up and high tailed it out of there.  This was not a storm for the timid camper.  Eventually the symphony returned and we slept until 10:30.  A quick stop at the Tiger Mart for booster coffees and a bag of ice catapulted us on our last, long driving day to our last campground stop: Mathews Arm Campground in the Shenandoah National Park, VA.

#GetDownTonight

Day 16: Voodoo Swim Trunks

59 N in Mississippi leaving behind a cosmically gratifying New Orleans experience.  Last Wednesday, we arrived at the reserved Premium Parking lot at 623 S Johnston St. a little before 8 PM to find Kurt in his silver chariot idling between vast, deserted, semi-rundown parking lots.  It took us a little while to determine which one we reserved online before locking and leaving with hopes of returning on Friday to a vehicle with wheels and windows still in tact.  Happy to report that we returned today to a whole car.

What should have been an easy ride to the Place D'Armes Hotel in the French Quarter was complicated by a series of closed roads sans detours, and hidden to the blind, google map navigation.  After checking into our refrigerated room, we walked to Napoleon's for Sazeracs and Pimm's Cup.  Kurt, having only eaten an apple and 2 red bulls that day, suggested fried shrimp Po-boys and some other tasties off the menu.  This was followed by the obligatory, surreal walk down Bourbon Street where nudity and open cup are public commodities.

After enjoying the sights and sounds with some Abita draughts, it was back to the hotel where we slept like zombies.  Without setting out to do so, we managed to pack a few days into one on Thursday:  Cafe du Monde, walk along the river, a bit of shopping, checked out the car in the Premium Parking lot, Joey K's (Garden District) lunch of red beans and rice, neighborhood walk, Angelo Brocato gelato, a fruitless search for voodoo themed swim trunks with an embroidered fleur de lis on the back pocket, hotel power nap, dinner at Pierre Maspero's, and a self-guided tour of haunted places in the French Quarter.  A late night dip in the hotel swimming pool was followed by an episode of "Botched" in an attempt to give exhaustion a fighting chance against adrenaline.

This morning, we checked out in time to manage breakfast at Surrey's Cafe in the Lower Garden District before parting ways at the Premium Parking lot at 623 S Johnston St.  Being in camping mode, this trip to New Orleans would not have been possible without or guide and mentor.  Thank you Kurt!

Day 14: New Orleans Bound

Herd'o'turtling it out of Austin on 290 East full of coffee and breakfast tacos compliments of Daniel Brandow.  We had a summer blast with Cassia and Dan in Austin.  We will miss Torchy's, Iron Banner marathons, Dexter, HEB, Meuller Park, the Bat Bridge, 98.9, Walking Dead, Amy's Ice Cream, Mabeline, Google Fiber, Warm evening walks, Cherrywood Coffehouse, Topo Chico, Alex the Janitor, Ron from HEB, and the guy who said "You don't belong here" at the fireworks.  But most of all we will miss RomanceGirl and GreenStegosorus.  Now it's on to New Orleans to meet up with cousin Kurt.  The original travel trio from way back when reunites!

Day 5: Austin City Gimmicks

We arrived in Austin last night around 6 PM CST.  In time to enjoy the Argentina v Chile Copa final with Cassia and Dan!  The game offered all the glory and horror a high stakes soccer match could provide.  Luckily, we had plenty of snacks to stress eat while Messi cried.  Now that we're off the camping trail, this blog will be going dormant over the next week or so until we hit the road again sometime around the Fourth of July at which time we'll be camping our way back to Maine.  You can "Join this site" in the Followers section to the right or "follow by email" at the bottom of this blog if you'd like to be notified of future posts.  During this blog downtime, we will continue to upload photos of Austin to this album.  Again, thanks to all of you who are tuning in and reading this thing.  We love you all!

Neal & Sallie

Day 4: Screaming Bugs Marching Band

Texas bound on 20 West out of Jackson, Mississippi (I learned how to spell Mississippi at an early age).  Yesterday, our expedition into the hot, humid South was complemented with Watermelon and Cucumber/Lime flavored energy drinks with a listen to Ron Sexsmith and Disc 3 of the Beach Boys' Good Vibrations box set.  We encountered our first traffic incident; a wreck on I-20 W not far outside of Tuscaloosa that had us sit still for an hour before we resumed moving again.  When the old, 1950's tow truck came slowly putting along the shoulder to the rescue, I realized we were experiencing a pre-collapse, Soviet Union-style traffic jam.  Without air conditioning in the car, we might have died.  And the hour or so we lost was compensated for by the time zone change to central.  We pulled into LeFleur Bluff State Park Campground at around 8 PM CST.  This campsite/park is kind of strange.  It's actually in Jackson.  Or at least on the very edge of the city.  The campsites seem like they're on an "island" surrounded by a small lake and marsh areas.  While the previous two nights were subtle, quiet experiences in the wild, this night was hot, humid and loud.  We could barely hear one another over the cacophony of crickets, frogs, birds, and what sounded like a UFO landing.  The bath house was oddly perched up on a story or two of stilts with a complex ramp system for the disabled.  We checked email (4G again) and learned of the US loss to Columbia in the third place Copa game thanks to live play-by-play from Cassia, Dan and Gideon.  Then we fell asleep to the screaming bugs accented by a distant, get this, marching band practicing into late night at the Michael Jordan Memorial field less than a mile away.  Up early to beat the heat, screw making camp coffee, we're packing up and getting Starbucks to fuel the last leg of the journey to Austin.

Day 3: Seriously Sinking into Summer

We logged in this morning and noticed a surprising amount of traffic to this blog along with a lot of well wishes and advice.  Thanks to all of you who have checked in with us.  You represent our headquarters while we drive all day and camp all night.  @alvin453 asks "Do the campsites have showers?"  Well Alvin, Colonel Denning did not have showering facilities but Norris Dam State Park did.  And we are freshly showered and on the road to LeFleur's Bluff State Park in Mississippi.  We arrived at Norris Dam (about 20 miles North of Knoxville, TN) last night about 8 PM.  Evidently the witching hour for a variety of fear-free wildlife to pop in, out and around our campsite!  Deer, red tail squirrels, a skunk, jack rabbits, all encountered to a backdrop of a who's who of the insect kingdom including my personal favorite: the lightning bug.  Another unexpected surprise was the presence of 4G data!  I was able to use YouTube to refresh my knot tying skills.  Being a northern folk, we're feeling the heat as we inch our way further south.  The sweat is real.  I woke up early with the sun shining in my eyes and begun assembling the morning ritual of making the coffee while Sallie slept in.  Sitting in the forest with the kettle on the boil, I reached for my phone remembering the 4G then thought "Nah".  It was then that I realized that I was seriously sinking into summer.  Sallie eventually woke up so we breakfasted and took a hike around the rustic cabins built in the 1930's by the CCC.  The dam and its surrounding area has a rich history with much to explore but not a dime to eat for these travelers on the go.  Again, thank you for joining us on what is turning out to be a great camping trip.  Love to all, Sallie & Neal.

I awoke with the sun shining in my eyes.

Rustic cabin at Norris Dam State Park

Reminder:  You can see all of our photos here.

#LittleBird